In Omnivorous Mike Sula tracks down a couple of modern-day moonshiners, one making aromatic runs of gin for the sheer DIY thrill of it, the other with hopes of crafting and eventually going legit with a Calvados-quality applejack made from Wisconsin cider. Distilling booze remains a felony; next week’s column on two upcoming licensed craft distilleries covers the path to making it legally.…
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