Anne Ford profiles Ehsan Ganji, an Iranian immigrant who found his calling as an artisanal bread baker, putting in stints at big-name bread places such as New York's Sullivan Street Bakery, whose owner, Jim Lahey, is best known for the no-knead bread popularized by New York Times food columnist Mark Bittman. The original recipe calls for a fermentation time of 12 to 18 hours, making it far too time-consuming for most commercial bakeries (though Sullivan Street produces it).…
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